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Where am I?
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A mysterious comeback onto the Silk Road |
Few snaps since 2014
 To see more beautiful pictures, go to the Wallpapers
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 7 days |
Kazakhstan : End of the trip, visiting Almaty region
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A week, to discover a place where I came before, without enjoy all what its tough nature has to offer. Camping by Charyn Canyon, unbelievably hot place in summer, I head for a very particular lake, called Kaindy. 12km along a tracks where quite a few tourists drive their 4WD, to reach this submerged forest, where trunk are pointing the sky from the crystal damn cold water. |
| Teaching some campers, cards again, it is time to go to Almaty, to prepare my souvenirs back to Europe, visit some unusuals things, like the highest ice-skating ring on Earth, and ... have some troubles with the police, as my laptop will be stolen while an unbelievable story one evening. |
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One night couchsurfing to finish the trip, eating some last manti, and heading towards Ukraine to visit friends, and then France...
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 28 days |
Kyrgyzstan - Back in the land of mountains and horses... as a guide ?
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Lovely this secluded country was in 2015, but I came there a little bit late to enjoy all its nature. So this time, as I aimed, I reenter this land where 80% of the territory is over 1000m above the sea level, in order to enjoy beautiful views over its passes and peaks.
Heading straight for the tadjik border, and the Pamir range, I climb up more than 3000m in one afternoon by car, to rediscover this mighty wall, in which the Lenin Peak hides itself even though it is 7000m. |
| Heading straight for the tadjik border, and the Pamir range, I climb up more than 3000m in one afternoon by car, to rediscover this mighty wall, in which the Lenin Peak hides itself even though it is 7000m.
Gently invited in a guesthouse by my driver to be hosted for free, I leave in the early morning, towards the base camp. A 24km pretty boring road, if nobody drives by. But a local farmer on its old soviet truck, and then half of the way picked up by Singaporian tourists. Tent set, bag light, I walk as far as the soil will allow me. A bit early July, and almost at 4500m, the north-exposed sloped is still covered by snow, and I don't have any equipment. Anyway, the plan wasn't to go that far... But like all the trekkers I've seen on that day, I'll be severly burnt by the sun, even without going to the section called the Frying Pan, after Camp1.
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Meeting some tourists burnt as well on my way back, I teach them Durak, the local card game, and decide then to head for the Tian Shan, very popular range next to China, by crossing the country where the road doesn't really appear on a map... because there are 300 not sealed. Luckily picked up at sunset time, I got an unpredicted ride for 100km, over a pass... and a invitation to join my driver for the night, if I pitch my tent next to his. What an adventure! Calling is brother living around at midnight, we trek with no path, me carrying my full bagpack, and wearing flip-flops, half an hour a very steep ascent... Holy molly! They will sleep at 4+1 baby in a tent as big as mine... And the view in the morning, with 400 sheeps awaking me, and... some snow next to my next, make me feel that I add a very special ride. The traffic is very rare, and I leave my host, walking downhill. The next city is at 40km. I will be finally picked up around 3pm, and I, for sure, need to have some rest and a shower in a guesthouse.
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| sheep intestines, I end up this wild road of Kyrgyzstan through amazing moutain passes.
Now, the last goal is to hike around Issy-Kol lake, most popular destination in the country, with easy but high summits, not far from the sea, this lake of almost 200km long. A swim there, and I head for a guesthouse, where I will find some french backpackers who want to do the same loop. So I invited them to join me, and will be the interpret in case of anything for the road.
Very busy track that the one going up to Ala Kol, with such a hard section to the lake, 5km and 1000m uphill, almost on gravel. But what a view, what a night at 4000m watching the stars reflecting in this pure water. An hermine will even be a lovely guest to conclude this tough day of walking. The descent, after 3h more uphill, looks even scarier, but in fact the slopes are made of lose rocks stopping each other. Same feeling as on a sand dune.
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| Then, the long way through the valley, passing by some hot springs, and the journey is almost over. I have now about 10 days to kill before my flight back to Europe. And I will try... to find people I met in the area 4 years ago, not speaking any russian at the time, but with some location I remember, names, and even pictures. Attempt number 1 : finding a family. Going to a lake to refresh close to their living villages, to refresh myself, I ask some people relaxing as well. One of them recognized a guy on the picture, tells me he used to be his classmate... and that's all. Then, later in the day, some dudes in a car call me. I ask them first about my picture, they answer negatively... and invite me to join them.
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| In fact to follow them home and to be their guest. The next morning, I will go with them in the woods next to the Kazakh border, to collect mushrooms. 3 guys, 6h, 35kilos! Resigned to find the first family, I head towards the kazakh border, where I had my first meeting with locals, the beekeepers who hosted me, and gave me way too much booze that I don't remmember much. So many beekeepers in the area. But not evidence of their old russian army truck. I ask some guys where I am dropped off, but they don't know each other.... So I cross the border, and here I am, back in Kazakhstan. A week to go before the end of this trip.
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 6 days |
Kazakhstan and Uzbekistan Express - Thousands of kilometers of sand and heat
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Surprisingly, for a flight from Tbilissi to Aktau, I'm not the only tourist. 3 Turkish backpackers are there as well. Pretty basic arrival airport, and a short sleep, to be back in the flat and arid Mangystau region. A taxi driver give me a free ride to the city, where I get some local currency, and then head for the train station 12km out of the city. |
| About 2500km are between me, and the next place I want to go. It is really hot outside, so a journey by train would be nice. Problem. We are during the summer holidays, and the train is fully booked for the next month. Or I have to go to Uzbekistan, where the Turkish are also going. But they struggle at the counter, and I give them a hand wih my russian skills. Pretty funny as Kazakh and Turkish language are very close to each other. But Turkish are not able to understand Kazakh except few words. I personally decide to head to Uzbekistan as it is the shorter way.., by hitchhiking. |
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In less than a day, I reach the border, listen to some funny world pop-music of a truck driver, meet some illegal workers in Russia sent back to their country... and am ready for another day of transiting. A truck stop in the early morning, on the Paris-Dakar quality road, and I get a lift for 900 more kilometers. Then a following driver take me straight away as the drivers' road is not the same, for 300 more kilometers, and the mighty Samarkand, where I am back. Exhausted, with short nights, mosquitoes, I will stay there 2 nights, and rediscover the majestic blue dome and tiles of the most beautiful city in Central Asia. Leaving for the Ferghana Valley, where I have never been, I meet very friendly people, got some more bottles of vodka, to reach the amazing number of 4 bottles in 5 days, including 2 days not drinking. Ferghana is almost an enclave, in a region made of enclave and exclave. |
| The Tajik and Kyrgyz border are very near, and the people are pretty mix. But very conservative muslim. And in pretty much any ride given, they try to convert me, and to suggest me to get into Islam. Damn hot here, Kyrgyzstan, I'm on my way, looking forward to your nice and cold mountain.
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 2 days |
Georgia, Through the mountain to an airport
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I was there a month and a half ago. Unexpectedly. And here I come again as Tbilissi is offering the cheapest flights to the neighboring Central Asian countries. A train used as a bridge, pretty unusual scene, and a long wait for a car, for finally changing direction and getting a quick lift, and a portion of Bifstroganov, he head for the valley in the middle of the country. Nice trekking are possible there, but I don't have much time, as my flight is in 2 days.
| | So I finally go to a Georgian monastery, hoping for a nice place to camp... but none. So I walk back 10kms, avoid a storm, climb up a steep hill, and pitch my tent for my last there, in a little wood, with a swing. Having a nice morning ride to the capital city, Tbilissi, I do a quick walk before the temperature become unbearable. It seems to have a lot to offer, but it is 38 degrees, and shade and drinks will be wiser than walking with a backpack. |
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Finally, as it is too hot, I leave for the airport pretty early by bus, and wait there, meeting a nice Iranian girl, fan of Gojira, pretty unusual considering the music freedom there. But Emancipation is a nice word.
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 9 days |
Armenia, Unplanned comeback in a Christian Kingdom
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As explained in the last chapter of my adventure, Turkmenistan has rejected my visa application, and I had to find another way to reach Uzbekistan, from Iran. But the neighboring countries are not the friendliest, with war currently happening and some of them. Armenia, a small landlocked country, famous for monasteries will so, be the next country. Abandoning the strict islamic laws of Iran, I reenter one of the former soviet union countries, and rediscover things like alcohol, drunk people at anytime of the day, and reasonable temperature. Indeed, Armenia is one of the 3 republics in the Caucasian mountain, and mountains passes and peaks are very common.
| | Camping and being invited for few beers at the bottom of a path for an old ruin of a monastery, I then head for the most famous of all, Tatev. Famous for its location, on the edge of a cliff, and also because it can be reach by a cable-car, one of the longest in the world, more than 5km! However since April 2019, a road, previously bumpy and gravel-made, got asphalt and is a way cheaper way to get there. So many treks and paths are on the way, as well as a natural hot(not that much)-spring, in a very scenic gorge. The monastery is stunning, but actually, I have prefered the one lost in a valley where nobody except few hikers go. A monk, in his black dress, with his gray beard was leaving there. An ermit.
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Caucasia is also a land of disputed border, and of one the most problematic at the moment is the one Nagorno-Karabagh. Lovely people, and amazing landscape on the way to the border. Then a visa-free, but still a sticker is given at the entrance. But not stuck into your passport as it would prevent people from any further entrance to Azerbaijan. Actually, on a world map, the province belongs to Azerbaijan. But in reality, only Armenian people and monuments there. The situation is pretty much the same as in Kosovo, where the land has been bought by rich guys to Serbia. In the current case, it has been given by the USSR when it collapsed. So for Azerbaijan, it is their land, but they have nobody leaving there, and no past there. So there is still a conflict running between the 2 countries, and people hate each other.
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| Not easy for Armenia as they also have a bad relation with another neighbor, Turkey, as there was a genocide a century ago. Anyway, the landscape is still green, with various remnants of the Soviet Union. Trying to find a guesthouse in the capital city, Stepenakert, the first I try is held by a man who is completly drunk when I arrive. But he offers me Cognac and a chat in russian during one hour, especially about his brother who died during the war with Azerbaijan. Very welcoming he was, but also very drunk, so I escaped a little ashamed, before getting any room, to find a guesthouse where the manager is sober, as I already had some bad experience with drunk owners in the past.
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The province is visited in 3 days, and on the last days, after having seen Papik & Tatik, the symbol of the Ashkran Republic, I see also Gandazsar, an Armenian impressive monastery, with some weird tourist-recently made attraction nearby. A storm, and a ride with a guy who does understand what is hitchhiking even if local people do it as well ( he just want to get 10$ from me), I end up sleeping on the edge on Sevan Lake, the bigger in Caucasia, with a little welcoming shower and a rainbow.
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| Half of the country has been crossed, and I'm going towards 2 last big monasteries before the Capital city. The most impressive one is Kuar Virar at the border of Turkey. Actually, the funny thing is that I was passing by this place, but on the other side of the border, a month and a half ago, with a view of Mount Ararat. The religious site is pretty normal, but the surrounding landscape is just magical. And then, being picked up by a guy with no throat left, but still smoking 3 packets of cigarettes a day, I end up in Yerevan. Weird capital of a former Soviet country to my eyes, with big massive monuments looking like new.
It is interesting in a way, but the most interesting was in fact to meet again randomly somebody who picked me few days before in Nagorno-Karabagh, on my way to Charles Aznavour museum. Because yeah.... I have heard of him everyday since I crossed the border. So obviously, monuments, squares, streets are to his name as well. It is time to leave for Georgia. 2 farmers gave me the last ride before the border, offering me 2 beers for breakfast... Georgia, I'm back
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 29 days |
Iran, a second venue in a beautiful land sadly still on the TV news
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After a first visit 4 years ago, it is time to re-enter one of my favorite country, and to, this time, go with the flow, in places not really touristic. Amazing was the first visit, incredible was the second. From the Turkish Kurdistan, through the Iraqi one, I enter the Iranian part of Kurdistan, still very green, and made of nice mountains, and little villages above steep slopes. |
| The snow-capped mountains peaks are giving more colors to the area, but it is also spring time, so flowers are numerous. Being picked-up by some locals, and invited at their house, I will have this time, a really different experience. It is Ramadan, the holy fasting month, but nobody is fasting. At least not any driver picking me up. |
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While the law if forbidding any restaurant to be open. And if alcohol is prohibited, I will end up drinking some with locals a week out of a month, which is an unbelievable ratio in a country where there is prohibition. This is probably the first time that I will say YES to every kind of invitation. |
| Even if I'm not sure of all of them, as English is not widely spoken, it always ended up with nice people, families, in simple sheperds house, to fancy villas. At the end of the fasting period, this year of 2019 was unusual as there were 4 days public days off. Visiting my only time a mosque during a month, with some rare believers, I joined some of my guests 2 weeks before, in a 3 days trekking into the mountains.
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The best and only way to get freedom, wearing no hijabs, shorts, in the nature for all the people of this country. Spring and summer also means that anyway, picnics and camping will be everyday, at every moment locals can enjoy the fresh air of Iran.
Finishing this trip by a new hard time with the neighboring countries visa policies ( I was deported from Dubai in 2015), I got my visa rejected for Turkmenistan... And have to speed up all across Iran to leave the country before my visa expiration.
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| Being invited a last time by lovely Turkmen people of Iran, not far from a cemetery where phalluses are standard graves, I probably beat a record of hitchhiking in Iran, hitchhiking through 1275km in 21h, including 2h of myself driving, and a 30minutes metro ride. My way on the map will look akward due to this unplanned event, but when, at the Aras border, I go to visit the Monastery of Jolfa, I realize that Armenia is not far anymore, and will be the next part of this journey, surprising, colorful, and with smiles everywhere. Walking through the calm border-crossing zone, it is time to unzip my pants' legs and get ready for beers, and speaking russian for the next month and a half of trip left...
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 15 days |
Iraqi Kurdistan - Don't tell your relatives you go there
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This is the paradoxe of this place. For historians, cilizations, writing, the wheel, all was born and discover there, in Syria and Iraq, between 2 mighty rivers : Tigris and Euphrates. About 5000 years later, while Babylon has been transfered from the first huge capital of our world, to the hell for rastafaris ; the war, the politics, and the human stupidity have transformed this places in hell for the locals. I would say that over there, everything that has to be visited, if I can use this word, is very very ancient. And the human kindness and simplicity at its best.
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| But actually, I entered Kurdistan, not Iraq. Probably none of you knows what is Kurdistan. This is an autonomous province of Irak, where Kurds are living, where Daesh has never been committing murders. But Kurds, the proud peshmergas, defending Kurdish villages went to the other side of Irak, and even Syria, to fight it. Peshmergas, you probably have all heard the word on TV. The soldier of the Kurdish lands. Kurdistan, it is also a land that has suffered of genocides, recently, under Saddam Hussein bloody regime. The funny expected fact was that, I was coming there, wondering about what do they think of westerners, as so many of them join Daesh, and fucked their country. But being French is something unique in Kurdistan, as Mrs Mitterand, 40 years ago, when the Hussein regime started to kill them, was the only person in the political world to pay attention to them. To even visit them. |
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But actually, I entered Kurdistan, not Iraq. Probably none of you knows what is Kurdistan. This is an autonomous province of Irak, where Kurds are living, where Daesh has never been committing murders. But Kurds, the proud peshmergas, defending Kurdish villages went to the other side of Irak, and even Syria, to fight it. Peshmergas, you probably have all heard the word on TV. The soldier of the Kurdish lands. Kurdistan, it is also a land that has suffered of genocides, recently, under Saddam Hussein bloody regime. The funny expected fact was that, I was coming there, wondering about what do they think of westerners, as so many of them join Daesh, and fucked their country. |
| But let's not get into a plot theory, just in case the C.I.A would read my stories. So many smiles, food and drinks offered, as well as accomodation, even from the Police. Very few foreigners are coming here, and they are all true backpackers. Actually, I saw less poverty here than in the neighbouring Turkey. And even pretty much everywhere in Asia. I would say that this is one of the most expensive country I've been in Asia. One of the most English speaking country to. Indeed, every body has got a decent job, and the salary are quite high, especially because the dollar is an accepted currency. So fancy cars everywhere, and even if the autonomous province receive no help from the bigger Irak, people are very happy to be finally recognize as the nation, after 2700 years on Earth. And also they are happy to be on the other side of the arabic terrorists-infested Southern Iraq.
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The green mountainous land is offering incredible landscape far from the ones we could expect after 30 years watching the numerous Iraqi conflits. And the kindness and the curiousity of their people, as well as their education is simply stunning. I met more english speakers in one day, than in 2 weeks in Turkey. And obviously, which can be criticized from our western point of view. The fear of nothing. Indeed, few drivers I met fled to Europe with no documents, and lived for a while in Switzerland, Germany, or the sadly famous camp of Sangatte, on the way to English. They came back, and are now happy here, seeing it was too hard to get a future in Europe. And now, their land is pretty safe. They cought some basics of the languages where they have been, and are all so thankful about the way they have been treated in Europe. So obviously, they give what they can back, when somebody is losing himself in the old Mesopotamia.
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| Well, don't watch and trust TV. And discover Kurdistan, its lovely people, and amazing scenery.
However, my last days there were weird. Lots of passports control, what was I doing here... And why do I want to cross the border to the next country. Iran. Where I've been again, but anytime, anywhere, the relation between Iran and other countries, including Muslim ones are very special. As they consider themselves as bad believers.
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 8 days |
Rediscovering the Eastern wonderful part of Turkey, land of Kurds
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I remember having been fed each time a driver was picking me up in 2015. 6 drivers meant 6 kebaps. And some invitations to stay home. This time, the experience is a little bit different, mostly because I look for long rides, and because I know what can happen to my stomach.
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Between this arabic Turkish guy who is driving from Russia to Kazakhstan, and being drunk very often, speaking russian, farsi, kurdish, arabic, turkish, and all the Cay offered to me, when people refuse that I pay my few Turkish Liras, this sounds like a deja vu. But the stunning turquoise lakes, the frozen ones, the snowpeaked infinite horizon, and this farmers living with nothing in clay-bricked houses, where the temperature is positive at night maybe 3 months a year, the feeling that I have left Europe, is really there now.
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The communication in Turkish is still pretty tough, but my few words are enough to have a chat with everybody. And everybody means a lot of persons as travelers are rare in this part of Turkey. So every one wants a little piece of chat, and obviously some Cay. While the international truckies try to exchange some booze, as there are consuming some when they go the ex Soviet countries. Old citadels, and rugged immensity of open-landcape, with no trees.
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Something has happend really quickly, after this mountain pass in Georgia. And with the simplicity of the locals, a touch of real poverty is added, as quite a few migrants, Kurds, from Iraq and Syrian, are trying to survive in the cold there, because of the recent modern craziness called Isis. The Tigris and Euphrate rivers are there... Cradle of civilization, here I come. But before a new adventure, I accept to do a U-turn on my road, to accept an invitation of 2 kurdish young hitchhikers, living in the city of the superhero, and the super kindness : Batman. What a best way to achieve this Turkish journey. Where the pictures don't need to be taken with your camera, but with your mind and eyes. Live the moment, don't miss it because of the damn social network addiction.
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3 days |
Georgia - Finding the sun with a lot of wine
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... In Georgia! Visiting this ex-URSS country wasn't planned, but is a fine plan B solution. However, the idea is just to follow the Turkish border, and enjoy the gorgeous mountainous and green landscape, to come back in Turkey quickly.
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| Remembering my Russian learn on the Silk Road 4 years before, is outstanding, as everybody speaks it, over 20 years old here, and as soon as the first car open its door, I can clearly explain myself. Kind people, drunk too early, like where I was before, and very generous, I end up having my first 'conversation' with a 40ish years old wasted guy during a 8min cable-car trip to go to the other slope of the valley, next to a small traditionnal village of sheperds and farmers. The night will be cold, but the nature is simply amazing, especially after my recent 3 years, with no mountainous adventure like this, and no snow perceived during all these years. |
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Only 3 days there, to cross the 2025m pass in a old Jeep, with walls of snow 2m high on a bumpy road with no asphalte during 50kms. A nice fortress, and the Georgian kindness will lead me to Vardzian monastery, being drunk myself for 50cts, after I got offered 2L of wine, and wodka by the owner of a small eatery, and a local guide for tourist. The Turkish border is almost there... And what a scenery for a border. But that is just the beginning. |
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12 days |
Turkey - Couchsurfing, and rediscovering the snow
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After having been exploring it from the Bulgarian border, to the Syrian one, 4 years ago, the idea was now to discover the Black Sea area. How amazing it is to hitchhike there, as locals are also doing it, and the highway are in really amazing conditions.
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Between long distance truck drivers, and fast cars, a day can be use to cross almost 1000km. Looking for a dorm in Istanbul as the temperature is near 0, I decide, considering the next part of my adventure, to spend some money on a decent sleeping bag, as my current, old, one is only for 10-15 degrees. Picked straight away by crazy drivers Iraqi people, I ended up in Duzce, city of nothing special, but invited by a nice turkish student from a Facebook traveling group, and rediscover a little bit what I have been used before. Generosity, hard language to pick, intensive smoking men, and plenty of Cay, the red turkish tea.
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Direction the black Sea, but the grey clouds are still there, and on my way to Erzurum, in Central Turkey at almost 1500m above the sea level, I rediscover the stupidity and the brainwashing of the Police forces in the world, as they totally questionned and searched me, just because of my keffieh, which is, in most of the Arabic world, a symbol of support for the Palestinian cause, but here, a terrorist item, as they are worn by the PKK, kurdish independantist group, who committed various attack in order to protect and emancipate Kurds from the autority and dictature of the turkish power. An iranian visa done with almost -5 degrees, and snowflakes, and I am ready to discover the green slopes of the Northern Turkey. But between showers, and cold weather, the landscape is a little bit odd, and I end up, in Borcka Karagol National Park, to see this very famous Black lake as its name means... white, and frozen on the surface, with about 50cm of snow on its banks.
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I decide then, to discover the Black Sea mountain area.... by re-entering Europe, trying to catch some sunlights in a country, worldwide famous for its wine, cheese... and its hospitality. The last criteria eliminate France from the possibilities, and here I am....
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 8 days |
Greece - Unexpected weather in Europe...
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Starting the trip in April, in Greece, was in my mind, an easy way to reach a decent temperature in weather before summer. But a big surprise was waiting for me, as I never, in a week experience more than 20degrees. Traveling as much as I used to do, camping, the rain was a major problem, and forced me to take the train one day, to avoid a disaster in Delphi, famous place of the Greek Mythology.
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| From the dirty Athens, and its stunning hills offering nice viewpoints, to the hospitality of the people from Thessalia, on the way to Turkey, who were very kind when they picked me, I also had the chance to have some sun, even if it was freezing cold at night, in the mighty Meteora, and their monasteries perched on top of rocks. |
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After 7 days, and a shortened adventure, due to the bad weather, a last ride from a turkish truck driver, brought me to Ipsala border-ready for Asia again. |
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Why coming back? |
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When I left France in August 2014, Central Asia was one of my dream. Discovering this pretty unknown part of the world, wild, and full of history, where the Silk Road paths are scattering the endless landscapes.
Hitchhiking through this place in 2015, I haven't visited everywhere, because of how big is the area, the visa policies, and some other constraints or choices.
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| Camping next to an abandoned soviet airstrip. Tajikistan, 2015 |
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The next goal to achieve, is discovering South America. But having been all the way to Australia, the question was, how to go from the Oceanian continent, to America. Flights are expensive, and the network not too big. The Pacific Ocean is a crazy one, and by boat will be a silly experience for somebody who didn't spend more than 3 days in a row on a boat.
So the idea, is to go back to Europe, and from there, analyze and decide of the nicest way to cross the Atlantic. But before that, on the way back from the land of Kangaroos, I decided to book the cheapest aircraft from Singapore, to Europe, Athens actually. And while spring and summer will be allowing traveling with a nice weather, cross the Middle East to Central Asia, through a different itinerary than the one I've used before. The final city will be Almaty, again, in Kazakhstan, which as the cheapest flight from Central Asia to Europe, with a great deal for 100euros, 6h in the plane, and with a comfortable airline.
Back in Europe at the end of summer, if everything goes well, I will then, think seriously about South America, probably across the Atlantic ocean
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| The realtime map and the business -not too planned - plan |
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I have about 4 months to discover the few thousands kilometers, and between 5 and a dozen of countries, coming back to some of them, discovering new ones, drinking tea or vodka with the local, playing Durak that I learnt with the ex-USSR inhabitants, and that I've taught and enjoyed with the people I met afterwards.
If I have to make a short todo list it would be :
The visa policies have become easier in the area as it used to be
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To see more beautiful pictures, go to the Wallpapers
